Boeotia
Boeotia provided the largest number of leaders, places and fighters: Iliad, Book 2, lines 496 to 508. Perhaps that is why they were listed first. Strangely, however, the Boeotians played only a minor role in the poem. They came from 29 cities or places. They provided fifty ships. On board each ship were 120 men according to the poet (Iliad, 2.510). The leaders were Leïtus, Peneleos, Arcesilaus, Prothoenor and Clonius. Significant Mycenaean places in Boeotia do not appear in the Catalogue, like the fortress of Gla in Lake Copais. Some of these are included at the end of this section of the poem's list of places.
Hyria - Dramesi
The location of Hyria (Iliad, 2.496) is uncertain. Strabo said it was "near Aulis" (9.2.12). Pausanias didn't mention it. A few possibilities have been proposed. One is at Pyrgos, a low hill above the village of Dramesi (now Paralia Avlidos) near the coast about 7 kilometres from Aulis. There is a chapel Ayia Paraskevi on its slope. In 1945 unauthorised excavations uncovered a stone pillar with carvings of three ships on it. This is on display in the Archaeological Museum of Schimatari. It was examined by the archaeologist, Carl W. Blegen, in 1946. He suggested it was a monument for the leader of the Hyrian contingent to Troy. Accordingly, he placed Homeric Hyria here.
Location: 38°23'03.5"N 23°37'35.6"E
Hyria - Glypha Hill
Another possibility is the hill of Tseleroni, also known as Glypha or Vlicha, near Chalkis, about 3 kilometres from Aulis. Stephanos of Byzantium remarked that Hyria was on the Euripos, as this hill indeed is. Prehistoric remains have been found on the site. The archaeologist, John M. Fossey, placed Homeric Hyria here.
Location: 38°27'17.3"N 23°34'04.3"E
Aulis - Mikro Vathy
There are two harbours near the ancient village of Aulis (Iliad, 2.496). One was a deep harbour now called Megalo Vathi, the site of the Chalkis Shipyards, and a smaller harbour 2 km north, now called Mikro Vathy, which has a cement factory on its northern shore. Close to its southern shore was a 5th century BC Temple of Artemis and a spring. These were discovered in 1941. Strabo visited the two harbours. He considered the smaller one was only large enough for 50 ships, and therefore supposed the ships of the Achaeans were stationed at the larger harbour (9.2.8). He may have overestimated the size of Mycenaean ships, however, for there would have been room for many more such ships on the shores of Mikro Vathy. Pausanias also visited the site. He saw in the temple statues and the remains of the plane tree mentioned by Homer (Iliad, 2.307), and the spring by which the plane tree grew, and on a hill nearby the bronze threshold of Agamemnon's tent (9.19.7). Recent geoarchaeologuical reasarch has established that Mikro Vathy was much larger in antiquity than it is today. It extended south into a shallow cove or open lagoon. This area is now covered with olive trees. The bay and the lagoon would have provided ships with good protection from strong winds and currents.
Locations: 38°26'14.4"N 23°35'38.8"E (Mikro Vathy), 38°26'00.1"N 23°35'32.9"E (the Temple), 38°25'59.6"N 23°35'33.7"E (the spring)
Eteonus
The location of Eteonus "with its many ridges" (Iliad, 2.497) is not known. Strabo did not know. He noted: "The name of Eteonus was changed to that of Scarphe, which belongs to Parasopia" (9.2.24). Pausanias never mentioned it.
Schoenus
Strabo placed Schoenus (or Schoinos) (Iliad, 2.497) about 10 km from Thebes along the road to Anthedon, with a river of the same name passing through it (9.2.22). This has led scholars to the modern village of Mouriki. Above this village is an acropolis, a flat area with a small church, Ayios Ilias (Prophet Elias). Modern construction has completely obliterated any ancient remains. The river Schoenus once flowed about 500 metres south of Mouriki. It is now dry. It flowed into Lake Yliki (Hyliki). No archaeological evidence has been found in the area earlier than 700 BC, so whether the acropolis or village are the Homeric Schoenus is open to question.
Locations: 38°25'27.0"N 23°21'26.2"E (Mouriki), 38°25'24.0"N 23°20'51.3"E (River Schoenus, where video was taken, on road to the waterworks), 38°25'39.3"N 23°21'44.2"E"E (Prophet Elias Church)
Scolus
The whereabouts of the village of Scolus (or Skolos) (Iliad, 2.497), mentioned by Strabo (9.2.23) and Pausanias (9.4.4), are not precisely known. However, scholars have identified the mountain of the same name, known to some in Thiva 7 km to the west, as "the mountain of the gods". It is a very arduous climb to the summit from the fields below. It matches Strabo's description as "a place that is rugged and hardly habitable; whence the proverb, ‘neither go to Scolus thyself nor follow another thither’." The inhabitants probably lived closer to their fields, near Neochoraki, and went up to the mountain for worship or refuge. Mycenaean pottery has been uncovered on the mountain, and Mycenaean tombs have been found in the area.
Location: 38°19'4" N 23°24'14" E (summit marker)
Thespeia
Ancient Thespeia (Iliad, 2.498) lay beneath the modern village of Thespies and in the fields below. The archaeologist John Fossey wrote in 1988: "There can be no site in Boiotia more depressing than Thespiai, not in itself but on account of the inexcusable destruction wrought there by Jamot in the years 1888-1891, for he completely dismantled the fortifications which had survived well until his day.” (Topography and Population of Ancient Boiotia, vol. 1, p. 135) Mycenaean sherds have been found in the area. Later inscriptions confirm it was the site of ancient Thespaia. But there is nothing to be seen today.
Locations: 38°18'14.9"N 23°09'10.8"E (Archaeological Museum of Thespies), 38°17'37.7"N 23°09'05.6"E (field 500 metres south of Thespies)
Graea
Several proposals have been made for the location of Graea (or Graia, Greia) (Iliad, 2.498): a site near Skala Oropou, a mound near Skala Oropou, modern Tanagra and Ancient Tanagra, and Dramesi/Paralia Avlidos (= Hyrie). There is nothing to be seen at the site, now built over, near Skala Oropou. Nor at the mound about a kilometre east of Nea Palatia, a suburb of Skala Oropou, which is now covered with olive trees. Modern Tanagra is a modern village with a museum. Ancient Tanagra has the remnants of a gate and the shape of a theatre both of which post-date Homer. Many Mycenaean graves have been found in the area. The beach of Skala Oropou looks across to Eritrea on Euboea.
Locations: 38°19'21.4"N 23°47'01.7"E (Skala Oropou), 38°19'07.3"N 23°47'01.7"E (Skala Oropou property), 38°18'56.6"N 23°48'26.8"E (Skala Oropou mound), 38°19'38.0"N 23°32'13.0"E (Modern Tanagra), 38°18'28.5"N 23°35'00.4"E (Ancient Tanagra), 38°18'21.4"N 23°35'05.7"E (Ancient Tanagra theatre gate), 38°23'04.0"N 23°37'38.4"E (Dramesi/Paralia Avlidos)
Mycalessus
The location of "spacious Mycalessus" (Mykalessos) (Iliad, 2.498), and identified by scholars, is about 500 metres south-west of the locality of Ritsona, and 300 metres from the Thebes-Chalcis (Thivas-Chalkidas) road. Strabo mentioned it: "It is situated on the road that leads from Thebes to Chalcis; and in the Boeotian dialect it is called Mycalettus.” (9.2.11) It is barely recognisable from the road. There is no signpost. There is a modern pumping shed over a spring about 100 metres south-east of the site. Vineyards grow around. Mycenaean sherds have been revealed by ploughing. Old rocks, remnants of a wall perhaps, are visible. None looks fashioned. Much of the site is covered in bushes.
Location: 38°24'23"N 23°31'8"E
Harma
The location of Harma (Iliad, 2.499) was on the Thebes-Chalcis (Thivas-Chalkidas) road near Mycalessus (Mykalessos) according to Strabo and Pausanias. It was a deserted village in Strabo's day (9.2.11) and in ruins in Pausanias's (9.19.4). One possible site is a 290-metre hill one kilometre north of the Thebes-Chalcis road, and about three kilometres north-east of Mycalessus. Some scholars seem to describe a location, not precisely given, that differs from that on this hill, for example: "The summit, at the south end of the hill is enclosed by a wall of polygonal masonry" (Hope Simpson) which was not seen. The summit is mostly covered in scrub. The modern town called Harma is three kilometres south of the Thebes-Chalcis road, and seven kilometres south-west of Mycalessus. It is not on the Thebes-Chalcis road.
Locations: 38°23'18" N 23°29'14" E (hill near Thebes-Chalcis road), 38°21'05.1"N 23°29'08.8"E (modern Harma)
Eilesium
The location of Eilesium (or Eilesion) (Iliad, 2.499) is not known. Neither Strabo nor Pausanias knew where it was. Strabo speculated it had been close to marshes, based on the name's etymology “hele” = “marsh” (9.2.17). It may have been close to Lake Kopais, now drained and fertile fields.
Erythrae
There are two possible locations proposed by scholars for Erythrae (Erythrai) (Iliad, 2.499). Both are near or on the slopes of Mt Kithairon, where Strabo (9.2.12) and Pausanias (9.2.1) imprecisely placed it. The first is above the chapel of Pantanassa about 1.5 kilometres east of Erythres (formerly Kriekouki). There are now electricity transmission lines crossing the hill, and no obvious signs of sherds or building stones. The remaining walls beneath the "acropolis" may have been old enclosures of fields. The second location is about 1 kilometre west of Dafni (formerly Darimari) where the remains of a "Μετοχή Παλαιό Αλώνι" (Metochí Palaió Alóni), as the roadsign near the church of Aghios Georgios describes it. There are abundant sherds in the freshly-ploughed fields round about. Most stones have been removed and piled up. A modern pump house covers a natural spring, which can be heard gurgling in the darkness; the water itself cannot be seen. There is a good view over the plain. Close to water and fields, it was a good place for habitation. Whether either location is the Homeric Erythrae cannot be known for certain.
Locations: 38°13'16.0"N 23°20'31.0"E (hill above chapel of Pantanassa), 38°14'34.8"N 23°24'14.7"E (Metochí Palaió Alóni near Dafni), 38°14'38.0"N 23°24'17.0"E (pump house near Metochí)
Eleon
The Eleon mentioned by Homer (Iliad, 2.500) was most likely the site now known as Ancient Eleon outside the modern village of Harma. It is a spectacular site for settlement, a spacious plateau on a low hill protected by steep cliffs with a spring, the Akídousa, still running, at its south-west corner on the other side of the road from the church of Ágios Vasíleios (Saint Basil) at the foot of the cliffs. Excavations on the top of the hill have revealed extensive remains from the Bronze Age to the Medieval Age. There is an impressive Late Classical polygonal wall, about 70 metres in length and at one corner about 5 metres high, and a ruined medieval tower (pyrgos).
Locations: 38°21'19.8"N 23°28'49.8"E (Ancient Eleon), 38°21'19.3"N 23°28'40.8"E (Akídousa spring), 38°21'20.7"N 23°28'41.4"E (church of Ágios Vasíleios - Saint Basil)
Hyle
The location of Hyle (Iliad, 2.500) cannot be determined with certainty. According to Strabo, it was near a lake originally called the Cephissian Lake or Lake Hylice. Hyle was a village nearby (9.2.20). The Cephissian Lake may have been Lake Copais, now drained. East of this are two lakes. Limni Iliki and, nearby to the east, Lake Paralimni. Between these two lakes is a modern farming hamlet called Iliki. Homer's Hyle was probably beside or near one of these lakes. One possible location is on the shore of, and now partly submerged in, Lake Paralimni. On the north-west corner of this lake are significant remains of Mycenaean walls and circle graves. The graves have been looted, but there are abundant sherds along the lake shore. Above the settlement (and a steep, hard, three-hour scramble over rocks and through dense shrubbery) are the remains of an enclosure. It has been described as an acropolis, but it is too remote and inaccessible to have served that purpose. It has not been properly excavated. Perhaps it was a refuge, for people or cattle.
Locations: 38°27'06.2"N 23°19'06.7"E (walls and graves on the shore of Lake Paralimni), 38°27'32.1"N 23°19'03.4"E ("acropolis"), 38°26'00.7"N 23°18'12.2"E (hamlet of Iliki)
Peteon
Peteon (Iliad, 2.500) was, according to Strabo, a village in Theban territory "near the road to Anthedon" (9.2.26). Strabo is the only source we have on the locality. As the distance between these two localities is about 30 km, there can be several possibilities and no certainty. One proposed location is a hill 1 km east of the village of Platanakia on the Mouriki-Drosia road (which passes through Loukissia, Ancient Anthedon, and modern Anthidona). Pottery ranging from the early Bronze Age to the Roman period has been found on the hill, though there is no evidence of any structural remains. Another proposed location is on the south-eastern bank of Lake Paralimni (Skala Paralimni). The precise location of Homeric Peteon, however, is unknown.
Locations: 38°26'17.2"N 23°24'51"E"E (hill above Platanakia), 38°27'43.5"N 23°23'06.9"E (Skala Paralimni, approximate).
Ocalea
The location of Ocalea (Iliad, 2.501) is unknown. Strabo said it was midway between Haliartus and Alalcomene at a distance of 30 stadia (ca. 6 km) from each (9.2.26). His distance between these two towns (12 km) is too long; it is in fact ca. 8 km. In any case, no ancient site has been found midway between the two places. It was somewhere around Lake Copais (Strabo, 9.2.27), but where precisely we do not know.
Medeon
"Medeon, the strong-founded citadel" (Iliad, 2.501), was possibly located on the hill about 5km east of Aliartos on what used to be the shores of Lake Copais. It was, or was like, an island, with cliffs on the northern lake side. These may have given rise to Homer's epithet, for there are no visible signs of any citadel on or around the summit. Archaeologists have uncovered fragments from Early Bronze Age to Hellenistic times, but today grass covers most of the ancient remains. Fikio Mountain is nearby, formerly called Mt Phagas, and Mt Phoinikion by Strabo (9.2.26).
Location: 38°23'12.8"N 23°09'59.0"E
Copae
Copae (or Kopae) (Iliad, 2.502) was located on a hill now occupied by the modern town of Kastro (formerly Topolia). Strabo said the town lay "towards the north on the lake Copais" (9.2.27). One needed a boat with oars (kopai) to get there. It was at the deepest end of the lake, about 2km north-west of the Mycenaean island fortress of Gla. From the terrace of the Holy Temple of Prophet Helios on top of the hill of Kastro, there are partial views over the fields on the former lakebed. Archaeologists have found few ancient remains on the hill, but an inscription that confirms the locality's name as Copae. There are no ruins visible today.
Location: 38°29'36.2"N 23°09'36.4"E
Eutresis
Ancient Eutresis is one of the very few places in Boeotia in the Catalogue of Ships (Iliad, 2.502) that is sign-posted. It is a low hill about 100 metres south-east of the Thespion-Erithron road surrounded by ploughed fields. On the top of the hill is a sign "Ancient Eutresis" and evidence of an archaeological dig. Excavations including an inscription have confirmed the site's name. It was inhabited from the Early Bronze Age to Hellenic times. The favourable aspect of the site was the presence of the Arkopodi Spring located nearby on the other side of the modern road. Two pump houses, one disused, cover the outflow.
Locations: 8°16'14.0"N 23°12'12.7"E (road sign), 38°16'11.5"N 23°12'16.3"E (Ancient Eutresis), 38°16'13.454"N 23°12'10.602"E (Arkopodi Spring)
Thisbe
The "Thisbe of the dovecotes" (Iliad, 2.502) was located on a hill 500 metres north-west of the modern village of Thisvi. Inscriptions have been found confirming the site's name. Apart from a few sherds, there is nothing significant to be seen on the hill today. An area has been fenced off for revegetation. Nearby are some empty Mycenaean tombs (Λαξευτοί Τάφοι). There were no doves on my visit in October 2023.
Location: 38°15'46.0"N 22°57'46.0"E (acropolis)
Koroneia
The ancient Koroneia (Iliad, 2.503) is situated on a hill about 4 kiliometres north of modern Koroneia and two kilometres east of the village of Ag. Georgios overlooking the former Lake Copais. Excavations have uncovered evidence of habitation from Neolithic to Roman times. Today there are a few rocks visible above the grass on the top of the hill, and 1 metre of polygonal walling. Inscriptions from the 6th century BC onwards have confirmed the name of the site. At the northern foot is a medieval tower and, more importantly, lower down, a spring that still flows today.
Locations: 38°23'34"N 22°57'25"E (marker on top of hill), 38°23'36.0"N 22°57'40.8"E (medieval tower, Pýrgos Koróneias), 38°23'38.8"N 22°57'42.5"E (the spring)
Haliartos
The site of "grassy Haliartos" (Iliad, 2.503) lies less than 500 metres west of the town of Aliartos, on the north side of the road from Thebes to Livadia. Mycenaean sherds have been found on the hill and its slopes, as well as evidence of earlier and later settlements, including in Homer's day. There are ruins of the pediment of a sanctuary, and remnants of walling of different periods on the slopes. Identification of the site has been confirmed by inscriptions. The hilltop has splendid views over the former Lake Copais. There is much grass around.
Location: 38°22'43"N 23°5'17"E (acropolis)
Plataea
Ancient Plataea (Iliad, 2.504) occupied a flat hill about 500 metres north of the modern village of the same name, and two kilometres west of Erythres. It overlooks the Asopos plain, the site of the Battle of Plataea (479 BC) in which the Greeks defeated the Persians. Excavations have uncovered evidence of habitation from the Mycenaean period through to the Iron Age and beyond. The site's identification has been confirmed by inscriptions. There is a spring off the south-west corner of the acropolis known as the Great Fountain of Ancient Plataea with several ancient stone washing troughs nearby. The spring still runs.
Locations: 38°13'22"N 23°16'27"E (north-west acropolis), 38°13'11.0"N 23°16'17.0"E (Great Fountain of Ancient Plataea)
Glisas
The site of Glisas (Iliad, 2.504) is on a hill, Tourleza, about 400 metres north-east of the village of Ypato (formerly Syrtzi). Strabo said the settlement was on Mt Hypatos (9.2.31), now known as Mount Sagmatas. Pausanias (9.19.2-4) adds that the mountain Hypaton was above Glisas. Archaeologists ahve uncovered sherds from the Neolithic to Roman times. There are some remnants of polygonal walling to be seen among the scrub, and nice views over the village and valley. Little else is there.
Locations: 38°23'30"N 23°23'48"E (acropolis), 38°23'16"N 23°23'39"E (Ypato town square)
"lower Thebes, the strong-founded citadel"
The citadel of Thebes had been destroyed by the time of the Trojan war. The inhabitants had re-settled in "lower Thebes" (Iliad, 2.505). Where exactly this was is unclear. Modern suburbs of Thebes (Thiva) now occupy the areas beneath the hill on which the ancient citadel, the Kadmea, stood. It is likely people lived close to water sources. In the lower area today are the Mycenaean tombs at Kastellia to the east of the Kadmea which has a view of lower Thebes to the north. The Spring of Oedipus is at the north-east edge of the town, so named because it was where Oedipus washed off the blood of his murdered father according to Pausanias (9.18.6). The Spring of Dirce, named after the wife of King Lycus of Thebes, is below the west side of Thebes. The tombs are now empty, and the springs no longer flow.
Locations: 38°19'17.0"N 23°19'19.8"E (Mycenaean Tomb at Kastellia), 38°19'06.0"N 23°18'51.7"E (Spring of Dirce), 38°19'27.6"N 23°19'27.8"E (Spring of Oedipus)
See also the videos Mycenaean chamber tomb at Thebes, and The Fountain of Oedipus at Thebes
"holy Onchestus, the bright grove of Poseidon"
The city of Onchestus and the grove of Poseidon (Iliad, 2.506) have been located close to the highway between Thebes and Livadia, where it cuts through a ridge dividing the Theban and Copaic plains. Excavations have been made beneath a low rounded hill with a ruin known by its Turkish name, Kazárma. Pausanias saw ruins of the sanctuary: "They say that here dwelt Onchestus, a son of Poseidon. In my day there remained a temple and image of Onchestian Poseidon, and the grove which Homer too praised" (9.26.5). Recent excavations by Columbia University have uncovered part of the town and the temple of Poseidon. They are covered by black plastic. Mycenaean sherds have been found in the area which is now covered with grass and a few unworked stones.
Locations: 38°21'58"N 23°8'19"E (Onchestus city), 38°21'44"N 23°8'42"E (Temple of Onchestian Poseidon), 38°21'48"N 23°8'48"E (Kazárma, Turkish ruin)
Arne and Mideia
The location of Arne, “rich in vines”, and Mideia (Iliad, 2.507), is unknown. Strabo said that "some say" they were both "swallowed up" by Lake Copais (9.2.34). Pausanias identified Mideia as the original name of the Classical city of Lebadeia (9.39.1), and Arne as the old name of Chaeronea (9.40.5). The photographs below are taken from the Ancient Theatre of Chaeronea and look over the modern Chaeronea to the former Lake Copais. Arne may have been in this vicinity. Some modern writers have proposed locations; others have dismissed them. As Hope Simpson concluded, "the search for Arne and Mideia is hopeless."
Locations: 38°29'46.2"N 22°50'43.3"E (Chaeronea), 38°29'39.5"N 22°50'30.7"E (Ancient Theatre of Chaeronea)
Nisa
The location of "holy" Nisa (Iliad, 2.508) is unknown. It was already lost in antiquity. Strabo quoted Apollodorus, the second century B.C. author of a commentary on the Catalogue of Ships, "Nisa is not to be found anywhere in Boeotia" (9.2.14). It has not been found since.
Anthedon
Homer described Anthedon as "lying on the edge" which has been taken to mean "located on the coast" (Iliad, 2.508). Strabo said that it was "a city with a harbour, the last on the Boeotian coast towards Euboea" (9.2.13). Pausanias seems to have visited the site. "Just about the centre of Anthedon is a sanctuary of the Cabeiri, with a grove around it, near which is a temple of Demeter and her daughter, with images of white marble” (9.22.5). It has been located in the area of Magdilo (also known as Mandraki), about two kilometres north of the village of Loukissia. It is a low hill jutting out to the seashore. Sherds and relics have been found from the Neolithic, throughout the Bronze Age, to Roman times. An inscription found mentions the ancient name. Nearby are the remnants of a Roman harbour. Today the hill is covered by grass, bushes and olive trees. Two modern houses encroach upon its slopes.
Locations: 38°29'54" N 23°26'55"E (the geo-marker on the hill), 38°29'50.7" N 23°26'57.9" E (Magdilo), 38°28'45.7"N 23°26'54.6"E (Loukissia)
Gla (not in the Catalogue of Ships)
Gla is a huge ruined Mycenaean fortress on a hill in Lake Copais. The lake was drained and cultivated by the Minyans of Orchomenus, on the west of the lake. Gla may have been their eastern outpost. Archaeological investigations have uncovered foundations of storehouses, but no city or palace. The area enclosed by the walls appears to have been used to store grain, to shelter cattle, and possibly to provide people with refuge in times of attack. It may also have served a military purpose. The absence of Gla (an Albanian name) from the Catalogue has led some to identify the site with Homeric places that have not been identified, like Arne (Iliad, 2.507). Yet it was not a city; it could not have provided men for the Trojan expedition. That may be why it does not appear in the Catalogue.
Location: 38°29'8"N 23°10'56"E (northern summit with foundations of a building)